Western Hognose Care Sheet
Heterodon nasicus Care Sheet
INTRODUCTION
The western hognose snake is an extremely charismatic little colubrid. These snakes have won over the hearts of many snake collectors as well as people who are just looking for a great pet addition. Western hognose are indigenous to the western part of the United States all the way from Canada to Mexico. These snakes are a great display of sexual dimorphism, with the females being much larger than the males. Adult males grow approximately 1 foott with the females growing to around 2 feet, females can also easily weigh twice that as males. Hognose can thrive in captivity and can live up to 20 years if well taken care of.
Western hognose are considered “rear fanged” venomous, which means their fangs are located in their back of their mouth. Their specific type of venom is more like a mildly toxic saliva which is generally harmless to humans. A few instances of allergic reactions to their venom have occurred with humans. So if you are sensitive to animal bites or stings you may need to proceed with caution. That being said, it is very rare to get bitten by a hognose and is also highly unlikely.
One of the most prominent features of the hognose is the charming upturned snout. Their pointed nose allows them to more easily dig through loose substrate in order to burrow or to search for prey. Western hognose also have another extremely infamous quirk which has to do with their defense mechanisms. When they feel threatened, they will begin to hiss as well as flatten their head and neck out to mimic a cobra’s hood opening up. If that act of mimicry fails to scare off the predator, the hognose may flip its body up-side-down and play dead. They will squirm about and sometimes musk in order to really sell the act. Hatchlings are more likely to feign death, however some adults have been known to do so as well. Their attitude, small size and alluring nature are only two reasons why western hognose are so appealing.
Western hognose are considered “rear fanged” venomous, which means their fangs are located in their back of their mouth. Their specific type of venom is more like a mildly toxic saliva which is generally harmless to humans. A few instances of allergic reactions to their venom have occurred with humans. So if you are sensitive to animal bites or stings you may need to proceed with caution. That being said, it is very rare to get bitten by a hognose and is also highly unlikely.
One of the most prominent features of the hognose is the charming upturned snout. Their pointed nose allows them to more easily dig through loose substrate in order to burrow or to search for prey. Western hognose also have another extremely infamous quirk which has to do with their defense mechanisms. When they feel threatened, they will begin to hiss as well as flatten their head and neck out to mimic a cobra’s hood opening up. If that act of mimicry fails to scare off the predator, the hognose may flip its body up-side-down and play dead. They will squirm about and sometimes musk in order to really sell the act. Hatchlings are more likely to feign death, however some adults have been known to do so as well. Their attitude, small size and alluring nature are only two reasons why western hognose are so appealing.
CAGE REQUIREMENTS
Western hognose will thrive in just about any type of enclosure as long as you have mastered their husbandry. The size of the enclosure should coincide with the size of the individual snake, for example a small snake will feel more comfortable and do better in a smaller tank. As the snake grows, you can increase the size of their enclosure until they are in their adult set up. Hatchling hognose do best started out in either a 5-10 gallon aquarium or a 6qt tub (for a rack system). Adult hognose need either a 20 gallon glass tank or a 28-32 qt tub. Plastic, wooden, melamine or PVC enclosures have also been used with great success and it is essentially up to whichever you like best.
These hognose are ectotherms, or cold-blooded, which means they cannot generate their own body heat and must rely on their environment to provide them with a gradient of temperatures. Providing the correct heat for a hognose is extremely important for keeping your snake happy and healthy. If they are not provided with proper hot and cool areas, the snake may become sick. One end of the enclosure should be considered the hot side with a hot spot of approximately 85-90 F. This hot spot will help the hognose warm up and will aid in digestion after a filling meal. The cool end of the enclosure should be kept around 75-80F. Having a hot side and a cool side will allow the snake to thermo-regulate its own body temperature by moving about the floor to where it feels comfortable. Many people using tanks will use a thermometer, found in many pet stores, which can be placed inside the tank to monitor the temperature. We personally use an infrared heat gun, which uses a point and shoot method to determine the temperature in one specific spot.
Temperature variations can be achieved by several different methods. Basking lights can be placed on top of a tank or a heat pad can be placed underneath a tank to heat up the cages temperature, these are the most common methods used in an aquarium. Light bulbs come in varying watts and colors to suit your needs. Western hognose do not need any UVB/UVA bulbs. Heat cable and heat tape are the two methods generally used in a rack system, but can also be used with an aquarium. Whichever method you use, it is crucial to purchase a high quality thermostat which will control the temps for you and will keep them within the perfect range for your snake. The thermostat will turn on when it reads that your temps have gotten too cool, and after warming the tank up to the perfect temperature it will safely turn the heat off which will assure that your snake will never over heat or get too cold. We will always use and swear by Spyder Robotics herpstat for our thermostat. They have worked excellently for us and are an extremely high quality thermostat that puts our minds at ease. We’ve tried many different brands, and at this point have given every non spyder robotics thermostat away. Spyder Robotics are the only thermostats we will even consider running in our reptile facilities.
Western hognose are extremely sturdy snakes which prefer a drier substrate and dry conditions in general. Lower humidity levels in the tank will be perfectly adequate for a hognose. While the whole tank should be kept arid, it is recommend to use a humid hide. This can be as simple as a plastic food storage container with a small hole cut in the top. Which is then filled with sphagnum moss or eco earth and is misted when needed. This gives your hognose a cool spot that will help them feel secure and aid in shedding. Adult female hognose may also use this humid hide as a lay box for their eggs.
Having an extra hide in a rack system is optional but it is necessary for a tank setup. A hide will allow them to go to their safe place if they ever feel stressed out. If you have a large enclosure, we would recommend using multiple hides so your snake has a few different options. A hide on the hot side and cold side, will allow the snake to hide in comfort without having to choose being too hot or too cold if you only have one hide in the tank. If you would like to add some extra items to your tank, logs or branches can be used and you may often see your snake climbing on them.
A clean, fresh water bowl should be placed in the snakes enclosure. A heavy bowl is suggested so that the hognose does not accidentally tip it over and spill all of the water. Water should be changed every few days or should be changed immediately if it gets dirty. I would also recommend a bowl sturdy enough to make it through a high temperature dishwasher. The water bowl should be disinfected on a regular basis. If it cannot go through the dishwasher, or it is easier to hand clean it, simple soap and water will work wonders. Be sure to thoroughly rinse any cleaning solution out before replacing it with cool, fresh water for your snake.
There are many substrates available for you to use within your western hognose tank. Sani chips and aspen are very popular. We personally use sani chips that we order from either Pet Food Direct or Pet360. Sani chips are widely used because it has virtually no smell and is easy to spot clean, or completely replace. Hognose have been known to burrow in their substrate, so having a few inches of substrate will allow them the option to burrow if they choose to. Pet stores carry a wide diversity of substrates in many different sizes. Newspapers and liners have also been used in tanks and racks for years with great success. We do NOT recommend using any cedar or pine bedding with your snakes as it has been known to be toxic and can be extremely harmful!
Cleanliness is vitally important to your snakes health. “Spot cleaning” any messes once a week is recommended, or immediately after you see your snake mess the cage. The tank, water bowl, and all extra hides/branches in the enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned at least once a month. Running the items (that fit) into a high temperature dish washer with soap is a great option to sterilize. Scrubbing with soap and thoroughly rinsing the items and tank have also worked tremendously for people. We use an F10 solution for cleaning our tubs in our rack system. F10 is a veterinary grade disinfectant that we order online from Reptile Basics. Cleaning the tank and items may vary with how busy and messy your snake is, but remember that a clean tank means a healthy snake!
These hognose are ectotherms, or cold-blooded, which means they cannot generate their own body heat and must rely on their environment to provide them with a gradient of temperatures. Providing the correct heat for a hognose is extremely important for keeping your snake happy and healthy. If they are not provided with proper hot and cool areas, the snake may become sick. One end of the enclosure should be considered the hot side with a hot spot of approximately 85-90 F. This hot spot will help the hognose warm up and will aid in digestion after a filling meal. The cool end of the enclosure should be kept around 75-80F. Having a hot side and a cool side will allow the snake to thermo-regulate its own body temperature by moving about the floor to where it feels comfortable. Many people using tanks will use a thermometer, found in many pet stores, which can be placed inside the tank to monitor the temperature. We personally use an infrared heat gun, which uses a point and shoot method to determine the temperature in one specific spot.
Temperature variations can be achieved by several different methods. Basking lights can be placed on top of a tank or a heat pad can be placed underneath a tank to heat up the cages temperature, these are the most common methods used in an aquarium. Light bulbs come in varying watts and colors to suit your needs. Western hognose do not need any UVB/UVA bulbs. Heat cable and heat tape are the two methods generally used in a rack system, but can also be used with an aquarium. Whichever method you use, it is crucial to purchase a high quality thermostat which will control the temps for you and will keep them within the perfect range for your snake. The thermostat will turn on when it reads that your temps have gotten too cool, and after warming the tank up to the perfect temperature it will safely turn the heat off which will assure that your snake will never over heat or get too cold. We will always use and swear by Spyder Robotics herpstat for our thermostat. They have worked excellently for us and are an extremely high quality thermostat that puts our minds at ease. We’ve tried many different brands, and at this point have given every non spyder robotics thermostat away. Spyder Robotics are the only thermostats we will even consider running in our reptile facilities.
Western hognose are extremely sturdy snakes which prefer a drier substrate and dry conditions in general. Lower humidity levels in the tank will be perfectly adequate for a hognose. While the whole tank should be kept arid, it is recommend to use a humid hide. This can be as simple as a plastic food storage container with a small hole cut in the top. Which is then filled with sphagnum moss or eco earth and is misted when needed. This gives your hognose a cool spot that will help them feel secure and aid in shedding. Adult female hognose may also use this humid hide as a lay box for their eggs.
Having an extra hide in a rack system is optional but it is necessary for a tank setup. A hide will allow them to go to their safe place if they ever feel stressed out. If you have a large enclosure, we would recommend using multiple hides so your snake has a few different options. A hide on the hot side and cold side, will allow the snake to hide in comfort without having to choose being too hot or too cold if you only have one hide in the tank. If you would like to add some extra items to your tank, logs or branches can be used and you may often see your snake climbing on them.
A clean, fresh water bowl should be placed in the snakes enclosure. A heavy bowl is suggested so that the hognose does not accidentally tip it over and spill all of the water. Water should be changed every few days or should be changed immediately if it gets dirty. I would also recommend a bowl sturdy enough to make it through a high temperature dishwasher. The water bowl should be disinfected on a regular basis. If it cannot go through the dishwasher, or it is easier to hand clean it, simple soap and water will work wonders. Be sure to thoroughly rinse any cleaning solution out before replacing it with cool, fresh water for your snake.
There are many substrates available for you to use within your western hognose tank. Sani chips and aspen are very popular. We personally use sani chips that we order from either Pet Food Direct or Pet360. Sani chips are widely used because it has virtually no smell and is easy to spot clean, or completely replace. Hognose have been known to burrow in their substrate, so having a few inches of substrate will allow them the option to burrow if they choose to. Pet stores carry a wide diversity of substrates in many different sizes. Newspapers and liners have also been used in tanks and racks for years with great success. We do NOT recommend using any cedar or pine bedding with your snakes as it has been known to be toxic and can be extremely harmful!
Cleanliness is vitally important to your snakes health. “Spot cleaning” any messes once a week is recommended, or immediately after you see your snake mess the cage. The tank, water bowl, and all extra hides/branches in the enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned at least once a month. Running the items (that fit) into a high temperature dish washer with soap is a great option to sterilize. Scrubbing with soap and thoroughly rinsing the items and tank have also worked tremendously for people. We use an F10 solution for cleaning our tubs in our rack system. F10 is a veterinary grade disinfectant that we order online from Reptile Basics. Cleaning the tank and items may vary with how busy and messy your snake is, but remember that a clean tank means a healthy snake!
FEEDING
In the wild, a western hognose diet will consist mainly of frogs, toads or the occasional fish. In captivity, western hognose are often fed rodents as they are much more easily obtained. On some occasions, young babies may need to be presented scented rodents in order to get them feeding. Small pinkies can be scented with items such as tuna, sardines or frogs. The large majority of captive bred hognose are very aggressive feeders and have no problem readily accepting rodents as food.
Baby hognose should be fed an appropriately sized meal 2 or 3 times per week. The appropriate meal size should not be much bigger than the snakes widest part of their body, most babies will need to be started on baby pinkie mice. As the snake grows, the size of their prey should increase as well. Adult western hognose should be fed appropriately sized meals every 5 to 7 days. Hognose are extremely eager to feed and are almost never known to miss a meal unless they are going into a winter brumation.
Baby hognose should be fed an appropriately sized meal 2 or 3 times per week. The appropriate meal size should not be much bigger than the snakes widest part of their body, most babies will need to be started on baby pinkie mice. As the snake grows, the size of their prey should increase as well. Adult western hognose should be fed appropriately sized meals every 5 to 7 days. Hognose are extremely eager to feed and are almost never known to miss a meal unless they are going into a winter brumation.
SEXING WESTERN HOGNOSE
Western hognose are some of the easiest snakes to sex as they can be visually sexed by looking at their tails. This technique works easily on every sized hognose from hatchling sized to adult sized. When visually sexing a hognose, you are looking at how long the distance is between the snakes cloaca and the tip of their tail. A female hognose will have a very short, stubby tail while the male’s tail will be much longer and not as stubby.
ENJOY!
These quirky little snakes have a huge display of characteristics and colors which lead to them being such popular pets. Now that you have learned how to properly take care of a western hognose you can keep and raise one with ease! Their small size and giant personality make them a great choice for any snake keeper no matter their level of experience. After you’ve mastered western hognose husbandry, you may be interested in breeding them. Breeding hognose can be an amazing experience and you can learn about how breed them in our article on how we successfully breed our western hognose collection! If you have any further questions, we are always available and willing to help. Feel free to shoot us a message as we may have accidentally left out something in our care sheet! We hope you enjoy hognose as much as we do!
